Hanukkah is also known as The Festival of Lights

It may be the home of the Vatican but December in Rome isn’t just about Catholic celebrations. The Jewish community arrived here in 160BC so it’s only fair that they lay claim to a slice of the festive season too. This year from December 20th to 28th Jews will be celebrating Hanukkah in Rome and all across the world. There will be fried food, a giant candelabrum and chocolate coins and really, what more could you ask for?

Also known as Chanukah, Hanukkah is an annual Jewish celebration that lasts seven nights and eight days, celebrating the rededication of the Holy Temple in Jerusalem in the 2nd century BC. There are a few versions of events floating about but the traditional line is that the temple was closed by a king who had a pig sacrificed on the altar, had circumcision banned and a lot of other measures that generally went against the Jewish religion. A long civil war ensued and when the Jews finally won back the Holy Temple they only had enough oil to keep a lamp lit for one day but, as the story goes, the oil miraculously burned for eight, providing the temple with the light demanded by custom until they could get more. In celebration of the miracle they made it law that the date would forever be celebrated for eight days with the lighting of candles to ‘spread the illumination’.

The Arch of Titus on the Via Sacra has its own menorah

As such, festivities focus mostly around candle-lighting ceremonies which is why Hanukkah is also known as the Festival of Lights. It starts with a special nine-branch candelabrum called a menorah. One arm of the menorah is higher or lower than the others to hold a light that can be used to light others and for other practical uses from which the other candles are forbidden. On the first day two candles are lit – the shamash or general usage one – and the first religious candle. Then on the second day three candles are lit, on the third four etc until on the eighth day there are nine candles or oil lamps burning.

During Chanukah in Rome the menorah takes centre stage of all celebrations – it would be hard to miss it really since the city’s principle menorah is no less than 20 foot tall. Located in Piazza Barberini, it attracts huge crowds for its nightly lighting ceremony at 6pm (or 4pm on Friday and 7.30pm on Saturday to make allowances for the Sabbath). A smaller menorah is the focus of a similar ceremony over in Piazza Bologna.

The menorah on Piazza Barberini is the centre of festivities

Like Christmas, Hanukkah is a largely family-focused affair with lots of food and merriment. Traditional Hanukkah foods are fried in olive oil (because that’s what was used to keep that first lamp going) if you fancy getting involved you should be able to order potato latkes in some Roman restaurants or pick up some traditional filled donuts in Jewish bakeries. You don’t have to make a conscious effort though. Since the Jewish community has been such a prominent feature of Roman life for so many centuries, local cuisine has evolved to feature a lot of traditional Jewish dishes such as fried artichoke so you’re likely to sample some regardless of whether you set out to.

By far the best place to get a feel for Hanukkah in Rome is in the Ghetto – the old Jewish quarter near Campo dei Fiori. Have a wander around the neighbourhood (it’s more artsy upmarket these days than ghetto) and see how many menorah you can spot shining through windows. This is a great to be this time of year for a few reasons, principle among them is this – only the last day of Hanukkah is a Sabbath so most business here will still be open on December 24th and 25th when the rest of the largely-Catholic city have packed up and gone home for the holidays. On December 25th there will be a celebration in Piazza Barberini starting from about 5pm with food, dancing, presents for the kids and general merrymaking.

You can order latkes in many Rome restaurants

One thing you’re sure to spot is someone playing with a dreidel – a wooden spinning top once used by scholars to disguise the fact that they were studying. The toy is the centre of a gambling game with stakes set using real money or chocolate coins. Grab a few and join in, Hanukkah is all about spreading faith and love (I hate myself for putting that phrase in writing) so visitors will be very welcome at all events.