UPDATE: In October 2011 unusually heavy rain caused extreme flooding in Cinque Terre. Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare were the worst hit and while Monterosso is recovering quickly and will almost certainly be in perfect working order by the time the tourists start trickling in spring/summer 2012, recovery in Vernazza, where residents have been forced to leave their homes, will be slower coming.
We would still like to encourage any visitors who were considering a trip to go to Cinque Terre though, our coastal friends need all the help they can get at this difficult time plus there remains a lot to see and do in Cinque Terre. If your trip is planned for the summer months chances are that most traces of flooding will be gone from at least four of the five towns.
Somewhere over the rainbow...
If you have been to Italy before or if you’d prefer a small-town break to a big city/white-sand beach getaway for your honeymoon, there really is nowhere like Cinque Terre. The group boasts five little towns that cling with determination to sea-beaten cliffs. Only these aren’t just any five little towns. The colourful buildings that characterise Cinque Terre look like they were stacked up, one on top of the other, by a child working with Duplo blocks. Their colours are fantastic – a vibrant rainbow of pinks, yellows, and reds. In all the spaces that aren’t filled by Duplo-block buildings there are terraced gardens, farms, dramatic cliff faces and lemon trees. And the best bit? In order to keep the ‘lost in the 17th century’ vibe of Cinque Terre, cars have been banned. I kid you not, such a place does exist in Europe.
The five towns of Cinque Terre are (from east to west) Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso. Riomaggiore is the unofficial headquarters of Cinque Terre as home to the main tourist centre and perhaps the largest selection of accommodation and restaurant options. The tiny harbour that Riomaggiore descends into is the postcard picture darling of the region.
Here you can rent equipment to snorkel or dive in the crystal clear waters or set out on one of several walking trails. The Sentiero Azzurro trail starts in Riomaggiore and traces 12km through olive groves and vineyards, over hills and mountains, taking in each of the five towns of Cinque Terre. Said to be the most scenic costal walking route in Italy, the botanical trail is really something to behold but can be very busy at times. If you’re game for a much more strenuous but quieter hike, try the 38km Sentiero Rosso which leaves from Porto Venere further east and ends in the luxury beach resort of Levanto.
Riomaggiore has one of the best photo spots
Next in the line of picturesque towns is Manarola which claims to be the oldest of the Cinque Terre. Locals here distinguish themselves by speaking their own dialect and besides from the rake of priceless relics, the town is most notable for the overwhelming amount of vineyards it houses.
Corniglia is the middle-man and the only town without direct sea access, so prepare for a hike or take the train. With its narrow streets and stairwells hemmed in by tall, vibrant buildings and its setting among the vineyards however, Corniglia is well-worth the hike. The town is the most remote of the five and consequently, it is often the easiest place in which to find a quiet spot. For added value make your way up to the lookout at La Torre where you’ll find the most incredible sea views and panoramic images of Cinque Terre.
For super quaint Vernazza is your man with its own 11th century castle lookout, cobbled streets and teeny tiny little harbour where the day’s catch is sold to local hoteliers and restauranteurs. As the only town with a natural port it started life as the region's richest so the buildings are a nicer and the architecture more elaborate here.
The cobbled streets of Vernazza
Last in the line (in more ways than one) is Monterosso, the western-most of the Cinque Terre towns. The most accessible but least characteristic of the towns, Monterosso was once thrown out of the group. Presumably Quattro Terre didn’t have the same ring to it though because they let the town back in after only a short time. Monterosso is the place that you are most likely to find affordable accommodation and restaurant options, especially during high season. It is a busy town known for its lemon trees and as home to the only tourist beach on the circuit. If you're going to be dropping by, try to make it a Thursday because Thursday is market day around these parts.
As lovely as they are though, there’s more to Cinque Terre than just pretty buildings. The towns here are responsible for giving Italy (and the rest of the world, thanks very much) some of its most famous foods including pesto sauce and focaccia bread. Although from the right place these two ingredients are a meal in themselves but dinner in Cinque Terre has more to offer. The region is famous for its seafood, from fresh line-caught fish to octopus, prawns and anchovies. Meals here are best washed down with a cool glass of Sciacchetrà, the white dessert wine grown and produced in terrace farms along the cliffs.
Transport in Cinque Terre is by foot, on electric village buses, elevator. If you plan on moving around a bit, even if you’re only hopping between two villages, the Cinque Terre Card is great value. Options come with or without train travel and cover walking paths (which, shockingly, charge admission), electric buses and elevators as well as the cultural exhibitions of the moment.
Manarola is the centre of olive oil and wine production
Be aware however, that Cinque Terre’s charms are hardly Italy’s best kept secret. In the height of tourist season (July/August) the streets become choked with camera-toting tourists and the price of accommodation skyrockets – if you can get it at all. Much better to visit these five gems during spring or autumn when you have the space to appreciate this magical little corner of Italy.
The area is accessible from Genoa by boat and train and it’s not too far from Florence either so a visit here can easily be tied into another trip, either of the lake district further north or a visit to Florence and/or Rome further south. If you're travelling through Florence it would be a crying shame not to see another of Italy's most special sights - the chiselled masterpiece that is Michelangelo's David. If you're in a rush we can help you pack all the best sights of Florence into a full day walking tour with skip the line access.